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Airport Food Review
A report by the Physicians Committee for
Responsible Medicine
Winter 2003
As the skies fill with hungry holiday travelers, the nutrition experts
at the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine (PCRM) have
reviewed the healthfulness of airport food and found that, in general,
food offerings are improving. This annual report, now in its third
year, evaluates the availability of healthful entrées at
restaurants in the nation’s busiest airports.
The report comes at a pivotal time. Over the past year, some major
airlines have stopped serving wholesome in-flight meals—or
eliminated food service completely. This trend has forced passengers
to rely more heavily on airports to deliver nutritious alternatives.
Are airports meeting that need?
Methodology
The review was conducted from July to October of 2003. PCRM nutritionists
surveyed the 15 busiest U.S. airports for the availability of healthful
entrées. The final percentage score for each airport was
derived by dividing the facility’s number of healthful restaurants
by the total number of restaurants. PCRM defined a healthful entrée
as a breakfast, lunch, or dinner item that was low in fat, high
in fiber, and cholesterol-free. A restaurant was rated as healthful
if it served at least one entrée meeting these requirements.
PCRM surveyed only restaurants serving breakfast, lunch, or dinner
entrées, so vendors not offering entrées, such as
most yogurt and coffee shops, were not evaluated.
Results
PCRM nutritionists discovered that healthful food has become more
available at airports over the past year, with some cities making
important improvements. Denver, which took first place in the current
review, has made steady gains, scoring 83 percent this year, up
from 61 percent in 2001 and 79 percent in 2002. Chicago O’Hare
gained 29 percentage points from 2002. Improvements were also seen
in Detroit, which rose from 33 percent in 2001 to 70 percent this
year.
But PCRM also identified some airports where nutritious entrées
are few and far between, including Minneapolis–St. Paul, which
scored 34 percent, and Las Vegas, which scored
38 percent.
Scores at some airports declined dramatically. Most notably, San
Francisco, which ranked number one in 2001 and 2002, dropped 14
percentage points and fell to second place. Ten-point declines were
also seen at Dallas/Fort Worth and Minneapolis–St. Paul.
Detailed Review
Here is a summary of what PCRM found at individual airports, which
are ranked from best to worst:
1. Denver International Airport (83 percent):
Denver knocked San Francisco out of the top spot this year by dramatically
increasing its range of wholesome meal choices. This year’s
score represents a 22 percent gain from Denver’s rating in
2001. Airport highlights include the portabella mushroom sandwich
at Lefty’s Colorado Trails Bar and Grill and the vegetable
tacos at ¡Que Bueno! Mexican Grille.
2. San Francisco International Airport (82 percent):
SFO slipped this year, dropping 14 points from previous years. In
the past two reviews, San Francisco scored head and shoulders above
other airports—a consistent 96 percent of restaurants at SFO
offered at least one healthful meal. Not so in 2003. San Francisco
did well in the past because it relied heavily on local eateries
that offered many wholesome menu items. But the airport has opened
its doors to more national fast-food chains, and these chains introduced
the typical high-fat fare, including burgers, fried chicken sandwiches,
and hot dogs. However, health-conscious travelers at SFO can still
find a fairly impressive range of low-fat, cholesterol-free options,
from the falafel sandwich at Deli-up Cafe to vegetarian sushi rolls
at Osho to the veggie burger at The Burger Joint.
3. Chicago O’Hare International Airport (71 percent):
A pleasant surprise now greets passengers looking for healthful
options in the Windy City. After coming in dead last in 2002, Chicago
has made incredible improvements over the past year. The airport
has nearly doubled the number of eateries offering wholesome food.
That improvement is largely due to the introduction of a low-fat,
cholesterol-free vegetable sandwich at all of the more than 15 Starbucks
stores in the airport. With one of the coffee chain’s roasted
vegetable panini around every corner, travelers can be virtually
certain of access to a healthful meal.
4. Detroit Metro Airport (70 percent): With the
help of an ambitious plan to improve airport food, Detroit achieved
a remarkable increase in this year’s score. Detroit was not
rated last year, but it finished in last place in 2001 because only
33 percent of its eateries offered healthful options. Since then,
the airport has teamed up with Henry Ford Hospital in Detroit and
begun a “Heart Smart” nutrition plan. Though this plan
is still being implemented, the airport has already made some positive
changes. With such exciting options as the jicama salad at Jose
Cuervo Tequileria and the veggie fajitas at Diego’s Mexican
Village to choose from, travelers in Detroit are less likely to
be tempted by high-cholesterol, high-fat meals at McDonald’s
and Little Caesars.
5. Miami International Airport (68 percent): Travelers
heading south for the winter will find a pleasant surprise at this
airport, which offers many wholesome options. Miami is well known
for Cuban food, and the airport is a great place to find such fare
as the black beans and rice at La Carreta Cuban Cuisine. Lighter
options include the vegetable platter at Top of the Port and Subway’s
vegetable sandwich.
6. Houston George Bush Intercontinental Airport (64 percent):
Houston jumped 14 points this year by offering more low-fat, cholesterol-free
options. Choices include the vegetable fajitas at Panchito’s,
spaghetti at any of the three Pizza Inn Express outlets, and the
vegetarian wrap at Chili’s.
7. Newark Liberty International Airport (60 percent):
New to PCRM’s review, Newark debuts with 60 percent of its
eateries offering healthful meals. That score is not overly impressive,
but it does mean hungry flyers have some options before they exit
the airport and immerse themselves in the tangle of highways and
unhealthful fast food that fills northern New Jersey. Good choices
include the veggie burrito at Maui Tacos, the California salad at
Dick Clark’s Restaurant, and the tofu with veggies at Wok-n-Roll.
8. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (59
percent): It is the busiest airport in the world, but Atlanta
does not seem to be on top of its game when it comes to offering
wholesome meals. The airport has improved 10 points from last year,
but terminals are still replete with bars and hot dog stands, which
offer little or nothing to the health-conscious consumer. However,
a discerning traveler can find some bright spots. Competing against
such eateries as Hot Dog City, three sushi kiosks run by Plain Delicious
offer vegetarian sushi. Passengers hungry for a taste of the South
should try Paschal’s Southern Delights, where they can enjoy
a veggie platter and combine all their favorite vegetable side dishes
into one wholesome meal.
9. New York John F. Kennedy International Airport (57 percent):
This airport describes itself as the place “Where America
Greets the World,” but the food offered here presents justifiable
doubts about the American diet. JFK plays host to several McDonald’s,
Krispy Kreme Doughnuts outlets, and even a kosher deli that does
not offer a low-fat, high-fiber option, but the airport leaves passengers
with very few healthful choices. Travelers can avoid the burgers
and the hot dog stand and proceed to Greenwich Village Bistro for
a vegetable panini or to Bar Avion for a seasonal greens salad.
10. Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (51 percent):
This is the first year PCRM has rated Seattle’s airport, and
the results reveal plenty of room for improvement. Air travelers
in Seattle should avoid the native Starbucks—which, unlike
those in Chicago, offer no healthful entrées—and head
to Botanica Tea Infusion for vegetable soup or Glacier River Café
for a veggie sandwich, soup, or vegetable sushi. Consumers can also
stop by China First Express for mixed vegetables and rice.
11. Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (50 percent):
Travelers trying to navigate Sky Harbor are likely to run afoul
of the fat and cholesterol served at the airport’s six Pizza
Hut outlets, six Starbucks stores, and other unhealthful restaurants,
including Jodi Maroni’s Sausage Kingdom. Phoenix did improve
two points from last year, and a few wholesome offerings are available.
Kokopelli Deli offers a vegetarian soup, sandwich, and salad, and
travelers with a lengthy layover can try the Gardenburger at Left
Seat Restaurant.
12. Los Angeles International Airport (47 percent):
LAX plays host to McDonald’s, Hot Dog Station, and other restaurants
serving high-fat, high-cholesterol foods. Among the few wholesome
choices: the curry and rice at Tampopo and the veggie burrito at
La Salsa.
13. Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport (43 percent):
For an airport this size, DFW offers astonishingly few healthful
food options, scoring well below Houston’s 64 percent. One
recipe for improvement: other restaurants could take a cue from
the airport’s six Au Bon Pain outlets, which all offer a vegetable
sandwich. This is an easy addition to any menu. Other wholesome
choices include the Strawberry Field Salad at T.G.I. Friday’s
and the bean burrito at Taco Bell.
14. Las Vegas McCarran International Airport (38 percent):
Hungry travelers in Las Vegas face a significant challenge finding
healthful food among the airport’s eight Pizza Hut outlets
and 10 hot dog eateries. The few wholesome options include Prickly
Pear Café’s veggie sandwich and Burger King’s
BK Veggie.
15. Minneapolis–St. Paul International Airport (34 percent):
This airport offers little healthful food beyond the occasional
dinner salad. A couple of exceptions: The veggie burger at Itasca
Grille and the pasta primavera at Sbarros are wholesome options—if
a traveler is lucky enough to depart from a gate anywhere near these
restaurants.
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Airport Scores: 2003
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| AIRPORT |
SCORE |
Healthy restaurants/total
restaurants |
| 1) Denver International Airport |
83% |
29/35 |
2) San Francisco International Airport |
82% |
41/50 |
3) Chicago O’Hare International Airport |
71% |
47/66 |
4) Detroit Metro Airport |
70% |
21/30 |
5) Miami International Airport |
68% |
19/28 |
6) Houston George Bush Intercontinental Airport |
64% |
21/33 |
7) Newark Liberty International Airport |
60% |
29/48 |
8) 8. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport |
59% |
42/71 |
9) New York John F. Kennedy International Airport |
57% |
27/47 |
10) Seattle-Tacoma International Airport |
51% |
18/35 |
11) Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport |
50% |
22/44 |
12) Los Angeles International Airport |
47% |
27/58 |
13) 13. Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport |
43% |
29/68 |
14) Las Vegas McCarran International Airport |
38% |
18/48 |
15) Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport |
34% |
17/50 |
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Comparisons from Previous Reviews
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| AIRPORT |
SCORE 2003 |
SCORE 2002 |
SCORE 2001 |
Trend from previous
rating |
| 1) Denver International Airport |
83% |
79%
|
61%
|
|
| 2) San Francisco International Airport |
82% |
96% |
96% |
|
| 3) Chicago O’Hare International Airport |
71% |
42% |
|
|
| 4) Detroit Metro Airport |
70% |
Not rated |
|
|
| 5) Miami International Airport |
68% |
Not rated |
|
|
| 6) Houston George Bush Intercontinental Airport |
64% |
50% |
|
|
| 7) Newark Liberty International Airport |
60% |
Not rated |
|
|
| 8) 8. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International
Airport |
59% |
49% |
|
|
| 9) New York John F. Kennedy International
Airport |
57% |
Not rated
|
|
|
| 10) Seattle-Tacoma International Airport |
51% |
Not rated |
|
|
| 11) Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport |
50% |
48% |
|
|
| 12) Los Angeles International Airport |
47% |
54% |
|
|
| 13) 13. Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport |
43% |
53% |
|
|
| 14) Las Vegas McCarran International Airport |
38% |
45% |
|
|
| 15) Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport |
34% |
44% |
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